Nowruz, or Persian New Year, is an ancient holiday and one which Leasider Ali Toufighi has observed his entire life. It is a celebration of new beginnings. Turns out Ali himself is no stranger to new beginnings. So this month, in honour of Nowruz, we feature Sabzi Polo Mahi, a tasty and aromatic fish and rice dish served during the festivities. Ali shared his family recipe and his memories of the 20th of March, the first day of the year in Persian culture.
Ali was born in a country steeped in history and culture, but raised during turbulent times. He was seven when the Iranian revolution occurred. Progressive and liberal-minded Iranians had hoped that the revolution would bring democracy, but were disappointed to realize that it was a matter of “one regime being replaced by another.” Ali recalls that “new rules came into effect; boys and girls were separated, and the textbooks were rewritten.”
He was born in Abadan, the centre of the oil industry. For most of the 20th century the oil refineries there were owned by British and other foreign companies. The flow of oil from Abadan during World War II for the Allies made it a strategic centre, a lifeline. By the ’70s, when Ali was born, the refineries had been nationalized and expanded. His parents were not from Abadan, but made the move for their careers; his dad was a petrochemical engineer, and his mom worked in the offices. Soon after the revolution, the Iran-Iraq war began, and Abadan was in the line of fire. The family moved to Tehran for safety. Ali took the relocation in stride, but at 14 he faced an even bigger change: being sent away to school in Germany.
The government implemented military service for all young men graduating high school – and Iran was at war. Again, to keep their only son safe, Ali’s parents made the hard decision to send him to boarding school in Heidelberg. “Everything was new and strange; the language was hard to learn,” he reflects. But he soon adapted and even graduated from Heidelberg University with a degree in finance. Though far from home he was able to celebrate Nowruz with the other Iranians in the town.
Nowruz lasts for 13 days. With the number 13’s negative connotations, the last day of the festivities involves being with family and friends outdoors in a picnic setting rather than staying indoors and possibly bringing bad luck to the home. Other ancient traditions include featuring seven different types of food or items on the table, all starting with the letter “s.” It is a time focused on family and friends during which gifts are exchanged and everything is cleaned and made new. People wear new clothes, family visits family – starting with visiting the elders – and children are given money packets, like the Chinese tradition during their new year’s.
As a celebration of life and rebirth, it is appropriate that the festivity starts on the first day of spring. Ali says that “the calculation for the start of the new year is very precise – it is based on the vernal equinox – and so could officially start at any hour of the day and sometimes even a different day close to the 20th.” This year it begins officially on the 20th at 5:01 a.m. It dates to Zoroastrian times and is, for the most part, a secular celebration.
Ali’s parents came to Canada in the early ’90s; Ali eventually joined them. After he married, he and his wife searched for a family home; the first place they checked out was Leaside. They looked no further and have been on Randolph Road since 2016. Ali gives back to the community and is on the board of the Leaside Heritage Preservation Society. He is welcoming and neighbourly – evidence is preparation of the delicious delicacies from his childhood. He explains that fresh fish is central to the meal because traditionally most Iranians ate smoked or pickled fish since many towns were far from the sea. This fish is lightly battered and seasoned with turmeric. The key is its freshness. The herb rice dish is a perfect blend of spices and herbs, herbs being a sign of spring and agricultural rebirth.
Ali has witnessed revolution and experienced upheaval and so especially enjoys the annual tradition, something that has remained consistent for thousands of years. He happily shared recipes and memories of Persian New Year. To Ali, his family and our readers who celebrate Nowruz –No Rooz Pirooz!
“If you really want to make a friend, go to someone’s house and eat with him…the people who give you their food give you their heart.” Cesar Chavez.
Recipe for Sabzi Polo Mahi
The herbs (sabzi) in the rice symbolize rebirth, nature, and new beginnings.
Fish (mahi) represents life, movement, and good fortune, aligning with the Nowruz tradition of placing goldfish on the Haft-Seen table.
Sabzi Polo (Herbed Rice):
2 cups basmati rice
1 bunch fresh dill, chopped (or 2 tbsp dried dill)
1 bunch fresh parsley, chopped
1 bunch fresh cilantro, chopped
1 bunch fresh chives or green onions, chopped
1 tsp ground saffron (bloomed in 2 tbsp hot water)
2 tbsp vegetable oil
2 tbsp butter
Salt
For Mahi (Fish):
2 fillets of white fish (sea bass, tilapia, or salmon)
1 lemon (juiced)
1 tsp turmeric
1 tsp garlic powder
1 tsp salt
½ tsp black pepper
2 tbsp flour (optional for a crispy crust)
2 tbsp olive oil or butter for frying
Instructions
Step 1: Prepare the Rice
Wash the basmati rice 3-4 times until the water runs clear. Soak in salted water for 30 minutes.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil, add salt, then add the soaked rice. Boil for 6-8 minutes until the rice is al dente (firm but cooked). Drain and rinse with cold water.
Add two tablespoons of butter to the same pot. Arrange a layer of rice, thinly sliced potatoes, or lavash bread for a crispy tahdig (bottom crust).
Start layering the rice with the chopped herbs. First, add a layer of rice, then sprinkle a handful of herbs, and repeat until done.
Pour the bloomed saffron over the top. Cover the pot with a towel-wrapped lid to trap steam. Cook on low heat for 30-40 minutes.
Step 2: Prepare the Fish
Mix turmeric, garlic powder, salt, black pepper, and flour in a bowl. Coat the fish with flour mixture.
Fry the fish for 3-4 minutes per side until golden and crispy.
